For the second time in a year, Casper mountaineer and sports medicine physician Dr. Joe McGinley is headed home without photos from the top of Mount Everest.
So close to achieving his goal of summiting the tallest peaks on each of the seven continents on Earth, McGinley had to abandon his current expedition after catching a virus that compromised his breathing and immune system at extreme altitude. The decision comes nearly a year after he was forced to turn back on his first Everest attempt in May 2023, which became too dangerous with mobs of climbers, including reports at the time that six had died.
“Words can’t describe my disappointment and frustration,” McGinley wrote in a Facebook post from Nepal late Thursday. “After months (and) years of training, after completing six of seven summits, after turning around last year, after the north side border being closed, what ended my journey was the common cold! I pushed as long as possible hoping it was something that would resolve.”
McGinley posted to his social media late Thursday that the cold virus seemed to be affecting his heart with a condition known as myocarditis.
“Unfortunately, my Everest trip has ended before even beginning. Just before leaving, I had a very mild common cold. I felt everything cleared up and traveled to Nepal,” he wrote. “At that time, we received the news that China was not opening borders to foreigners. I made the decision to acclimatize at Mera Peak in Nepal and then attempt Everest from the traditional south side.”
McGinley wrote that while hiking on Mera Peak, which is 19 miles from Everest, his team did several hikes from 12,000 feet to 21,500 feet and he was “exceptionally fatigued and very weak” at even the lower altitudes.
Dr. Joe McGinley said he wants to focus on the positive despite being foiled from his latest climbing attempt to summit Mount Everest. He shared his view from his tent on Mera Peak, just 19 miles from Everest. (Courtesy Dr. Joe McGinley) 
A view of the camp on Mera Peak in the Himilayan Mountains shared by Dr. Joe McGinley. He said his favorite part of his climbing in Nepal has been interacting with the Sherpa people. (Courtesy Dr. Joe McGinley)
Irregular Heart Rate
Higher up the mountain, McGinley said he developed an irregular heart rate and though he made it to the high camp on Mera Peak at 19,500 feet, his symptoms worsened even as his oxygen levels seemed normal.
“Our team did have an expedition doctor with us, and I was in contact with my local cardiologist,” McGinley wrote. “We made the decision for me not to summit Mera Peak and come down to lower altitude. Unfortunately, symptoms did not resolve, and I needed to return to Kathmandu.”
McGinley said he suspects that he has myocarditis, which is an inflammation of the heart.
The Mayo Clinic website says the condition can reduce the heart’s ability to pump blood and causes shortness of breath, chest pain and rapid or irregular heart rhythms. The condition can be serious leading to blood clots forming in the heart.
“Unfortunately, this will not get better at high altitude, and thus ending my journey to Everest before even reaching base camp,” McGinley wrote.
After turning around while trying to summit the 29,031-foot Everest last May due to crowded and unsafe conditions on the mountain, and conquering Mount Vinson in Antarctica in January, McGinley headed back toward Mount Everest on April 21 thinking he would climb the mountain’s north face.
The north face region is controlled by China, and the Chinese would not allow his German-led climbing team into the country.
The team then planned for ascent on the traditional south side, and McGinley had posted last week that he hoped to be at Everest’s base camp by May 3 or 4.
Staying Positive
In addition to Mount Vinson, McGinley has already summited Kilimanjaro in Africa, Mount Elbrus in Europe, Denali in North America, Mount Aconcagua in South America, and the Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia.
On Thursday, he we wrote that he wanted to focus on the positive, as he could see Everest looming from his tent on Mera Peak.
“I did get to hike and climb in some amazing places this past week and meet wonderful people from all over the planet. My favorite part (is) meeting and climbing with Sherpa, who are the nicest and hardest working people on this planet,” he wrote. “I am thankful for the ability to take on these challenges, I am blessed to even have the opportunity. The experiences are life changing and give me a unique perspective on how lucky we are.”
McGinley wrote that he appreciates the support he has received on his latest attempt and seemed to indicate that the seventh summit still remains a goal.
“To successfully climb high mountains, not only does it take training, strength, endurance, team support, but it also takes luck. Unfortunately, luck was not on my side this time,” he wrote. “This will not be the end of the story, just another obstacle to climb.”
Dale Killingbeck can be reached at dale@cowboystatedaily.com.
